Nestled in the heart of the Picos de Europa lies a small village that remains inaccessible by car to this day. To reach Bulnes in Asturias, one must either take a steep mountain path or travel through the mountain on an underground funicular.
Spain Expat Press Editorial Team
by Marlon Gallego Bosbach
In northern Spain, there is a place that is exceptionally unusual to reach. Located in the Asturian Picos de Europa, Bulnes cannot be accessed via a standard road. Cars must be left in Poncebos, about four kilometers away; from there, the journey continues either on foot through the mountains or via a unique railway connection.
It is precisely this extraordinary location that makes Bulnes a popular destination for hikers and tourists wishing to discover one of Asturias’ most remote places.
A village in the middle of the mountains
Bulnes belongs to the municipality of Cabrales and is situated at an altitude of around 650 meters. The small mountain village consists of traditional stone houses that cling closely to the steep slopes of the Picos de Europa.
The village is essentially divided into two areas: the lower part, La Villa, and the higher-lying area, El Castillo. Narrow paths wind between the houses, while the striking limestone peaks of the Picos de Europa rise up around the village.
For centuries, the secluded location was not only a characteristic of the place but also shaped the daily lives of its inhabitants.
In the past, only a mountain path led to Bulnes
Until the beginning of the 21st century, Bulnes was accessible only via a narrow and partly steep mountain path. Anyone wishing to bring goods into the village or leave the place had to make the journey on foot.
The historic trail begins in Poncebos and leads up through the Canal del Tejo to Bulnes. The hike is approximately 3.5 kilometers long and involves an ascent of about 400 meters. For experienced hikers, the route offers a way to reach the village in the traditional manner, while also providing spectacular views of the Picos de Europa mountain landscape.
By train through the mountain
Since 2001, however, there has been a distinctly unusual option available: an underground funicular connecting Poncebos and Bulnes. Instead of simply traveling along a mountainside, the railway passes through a tunnel more than 2.2 kilometers long inside the mountain, overcoming an elevation difference of around 402 meters.
The journey takes only about eight minutes. This significantly reduced the village’s centuries-long isolation without the need to build a road through the fragile mountain landscape.
The funicular is more than just a tourist attraction
For visitors, the journey through the mountain is a special experience. For the few inhabitants of Bulnes, however, it is above all an important link to the valley.
The funicular enables them to leave the village to go shopping, attend medical appointments, or take care of other necessary business outside the village. Goods can also be transported to Bulnes this way. Consequently, the railway operates year-round and is not geared exclusively towards tourism.
A place with few inhabitants
Bulnes is a very small village today. Only a few people live there permanently. At the same time, numerous visitors come to the village, especially during the warmer months.
Restaurants and accommodations have adapted to the rise in tourism. As a result, two very different worlds meet in Bulnes: the traditional life of a remote mountain village and modern tourism in one of Spain’s most famous mountain regions.
Anyone walking through the narrow alleys still gets an impression of how strongly the surroundings have shaped the place.
Popular destination in the Picos de Europa
Bulnes is situated in one of the most spectacular landscapes in northern Spain. The Picos de Europa attract hikers and mountaineers from Spain and abroad every year.
The famous Ruta del Cares is also nearby. This hiking trail winds through a spectacular gorge amidst the Asturian mountains and ranks among the country’s most renowned hiking routes. A visit to Bulnes can therefore easily be combined with other excursions into the mountains of Asturias.
Why Bulnes has no road
The fact that there is still no conventional road to Bulnes today is primarily due to the extreme topography. The village is situated deep within a rugged, hard-to-reach mountain area characterized by steep slopes and rock formations. A road connection would have required significant alterations to the landscape; instead, an underground solution was created in the form of a funicular.
To this day, Bulnes remains an unusual, unique case: the village cannot be reached by road, yet it is connected by a modern mode of transport.
Between seclusion and tourism
It is precisely this contrast that makes the place so interesting. Bulnes still conveys the image of a remote mountain village, yet it has long since ceased to be an unknown location.
Images and videos of the unusual journey frequently attract attention on social media. Many visitors are particularly fascinated by the idea that a village in the heart of the Picos de Europa can be reached only on foot or via an underground tunnel.
@carloartspain visitar el pueblo aislado de Bulnes, Asturias 🇪🇸 el único pueblo inaccesible por carretera de España 🏔️ 📍 En el gps o maps tienes que poner la localización exacta de “Funicular de Bulnes, Poncebos” para llegar al parking y entrada del funicular, otras opciones te podrán confundir. ❄️ Asegúrate del tiempo, en invierno es probable ver nieve, hielo, niebla… ir preparado. 🚃 Horario funicular Todos los días de 10:00 a 20:00 horas, cada 30 minutos. El viaje dura 10 minutos. 🎟️ Precio Adulto ida y vuelta 22.16 € Adulto ida 17.61 € Niño idea y vuelta 6,71€ Niño ida 4.32 € 🅿️ El parking de abajo es gratuito y de acceso libre. 🏡 Arriba hay alojamiento que ronda los 70€ la habitación. 🍽️ Hay pequeños restaurantes con comida exquisita. ¡Qué ver cerca! 1️⃣ En Bulnes tienes diversidad de rutas de senderismo espectaculares. 2️⃣ Ruta del Cares, de las más bonitas de España. 3️⃣ Las cuevas de los quesos cabrales. 4️⃣ Conocer los pueblos de Bárcena Mayor, Potes, Sostres o Mogrovejo. ¿Qué te ha parecido este lugar? Para mí es de lo más espectacular que he visto en España 😍 te sigo mostrando más lugares únicos en el perfil 😉 🔐 Guarda el reel para organizar tu visita. #bulnes #inaccesible #aldea #puebloperdido #Asturias #lugaresunicos #lugaresconencanto #pueblo #turismorural #pueblosconencanto #rutasespaña #rutas #explorespain #aventura #viajar #pueblosmagicos ♬ sonido original – Carlo Cuñado
Anyone traveling to Bulnes therefore experiences not only an extraordinary destination but also a piece of the history of life in Spain’s remote mountain regions.
